DIY Floor Mirror Frame (with oxidized wood finish)

I got a chop/miter saw for Christmas from my parents and put it to use making a frame for a mirror that I've had for a really long time. So long that the edges were chipping off a bit and needed some protection. After seeing some nice looking floor mirrors that were pretty expensive, I decided that I could make this old thing look way more expensive than it is for half the cost of buying new. Plus it gave me something to do during the polar vortex in Chiberia. This was a pretty easy project if you already have a few tools. I did end up having to buy a Kreg Mini Jig and a few other items to drill pocket holes. But it was a small investment for something that I can use for other projects in the future. And the Kreg is super fun to use. I love this thing!

Mirror Before - Boring!

Materials Needed:

• Miter saw or hand saw
• Wood for frame ( I used 1x8's because I wanted a grand look)
• Kreg Mini Jig
• Kreg Face Clamp
• Kreg pocket hole screws (you need 1 1/4" for a 3/4" board)
• Kreg square drill bits
• Quick Clamps
• 1/4" plywood (enough to cover back of mirror)
• 1/4" x 2" strips of wood to act as the "frame" on the back of the frame to hold in your mirror
• 3/4" wood screws
• Vinegar
• Steel Wool
• Black Tea

Cut Your Boards

You can do whatever style you'd like, straight cuts and butt the boards up to each other or do 45 degree angles like I did. Just make sure to measure your mirror. Mine is 20" wide, so I wanted the opening of the frame to be 19" wide so the mirror could have 1/2" on each side to sit on the backside of the frame. Try fitting your boards together to make sure there are no glaring issues. I placed the matching pieces on top of each other to make sure they were the same size. You just never know if you're not a super skilled wood worker, you could have made a mistake somewhere. I actually cut my small boards a little too big the first time because my math was off, luckily it wasn't too small and I could just cut it down a little.  

Wood Oxidation 

1. Take a handful of steel wool (0 to 000) and place in a jar and fill the jar with white vinegar. I found that not sealing it completely and letting air in helped speed up the process of the vinegar dissolving the steel wool. But this stinks in your house. Sit it outside or place in the garage.  
2. Brew a bunch of tea bags in another jar. I threw like 8 into one jar and poured hot water over it and let it site for a while. 
3. Paint a few coats of black tea on your boards, letting dry between coats. You won't really notice a huge change at this point. FYI if you decide to paint your tea on and then mess around with the vinegar because it's not looking like it's doing anything so you think poking your fingers in it and stirring a bit is a good idea, the skin around your finger nails are going to turn grey/black.
4. Once your vinegar solution looks cloudy and a slight brown color, you can test and see if it's going to change to the color you want. The longer it dries, the darker it will get. I only put one coat of vinegar solution on the boards and you can see the change that happened.
5. After this dried, I finished it with 4 coats of water-based polyurethane by Minwax. Sanding with an extra fine sanding sponge or flexible finishing pad between coats.

 

Painting on the Tea

Steel Wool in Vinegar and Black Tea Jars

After Painting on Vinegar/Steel Wool Solution

Frame Assembly

1. Place your frame pieces face down on a surface that you have covered with towels or something soft to protect your finish. You could always finish after assembly, but I didn't have the space to keep a fully assembled frame out like that for a few days. 
2. Drill your pocket holes in both sides of the long boards. With my 1x8's I was able to get 3 holes in. I probably could have gotten 4 and probably should have, but I wasn't thinking because I was excited. 
3. Fit one end together by clamping your pieces together to a table and use a drill with your Kreg square drill bit to screw in your pocket hole screws. Keep going until you've got your frame assembled. 
4. Measure a 1/2" in from the interior of your frame and mark it all around. Take your 2" wood strips and clamp them down one at a time at your half inch mark and use a small drill bit to pre-drill your holes to screw the strips to your board. Use 3/4" screws here. Finish adding all strips. Mark with a pencil on frame on the outside part of the strip where you have placed your screws so you know where you can place screws for the plywood backing in step 5.
5. Place your mirror inside the space you just created. 
6. Place your 1/4" plywood that you have cut to cover the back of the mirror and pre-drill for your 3/4" screws, then add your screws. 
7. Boom! You're done! get some help picking this baby up or be careful moving it. I splintered the corner of my frame almost immediately. :( But thankfully it was easily masked.

Kreg Mini Jig - Pocket Hole Guide

Finished Frame :)

Mine ended up being 6' 9.5" tall and just shy of 34" wide. I spent about 100 bucks on wood, screws, the pocket jig set, clamp, and sanding sponge. I already had the mirror, poly, vinegar, tea, and steel wool. So not a bad investment for something that would cost upwards of 200 bucks for a cheap version and more like 400 for a nicer version which I think this one ends up looking like. If you don't want to oxidize the wood, you could do any finish that will match your existing decor. It's really up to you. I was thinking if you wanted a fancier look to this, you could get some crown moulding or other decorative moulding to build up a look you want. it would definitely make for an even more grand look and focal point of your room. If you're adding more bulk though, be sure you can move it where you want it after it's built. Mine feels like it's 50 pounds. I might have to take the back off the frame and remove the mirror when we move out of our 3rd floor condo. Yuck.

Finished Project

Finished Project